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This mailbox is simple enough to build with enough time on hand! The whole build used 4×4 and 1×6 lumber that you can purchase right from your nearest home improvement store.

Okay now on to the build –

I cut all the wood according to the cut list below using a compound miter saw.  You could also have your local home improvement store cut your boards for you.  Please keep in mind that straight end cuts are very important to keep everything leveled.

Preparation

SHOPPING LIST

  • Mailbox – We bought the Mail Boss 7506
  • 3 – 4 in. x 4 in. x 6 ft. #2 Pine Pressure-Treated Lumber
  • 6 – 1 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft. Ground Contact Pressure-Treated Board
  • 1 – 2 in. x 4 in. x 4 ft. Premium Ground Contact Pressure-Treated Lumber
  • 100 – 1-¼” brad nails
  • 100 – 1-1/2 in. 16 Ga. Straight Nails
  • 50 lb. Fast-Setting Concrete Mix
  • Circular Saw
  • Drill
  • Shovel
  • 18 Gauge Brad Nail Gun
  • Palm Sander with 120 grit sandpaper
  • Measuring Tape
  • Safety Glasses
  • Carpenter Pencil

CUT LIST


4×4

  • 1 – 37″ plus 12” for in ground                           (front post)
  • 2 – 48″ plus 12” for in ground                        (2 rear post)

1×6

  • 12 – 27″                                                         (for the sides)
  • 1 – 47″ with a 45 degree angle            (for the rear cover)
  • 1 – 11” with a 45 degree angle              (for the top cover)
  • 1 – 36″                                                 (for the front cover)
  • 4 – 11 ½”                      (for the sides behind the mailbox)

2×4

  • 1 – 16 ½”                (cross support in between 4×4 posts)
  • 2 – 6″                               (bottom parts for cross support)
  • 1 – 13″                         (optional support for center beam)

TOOLS


I had the original post from my old mailbox already in place, It stood around 37 ½” high. I used this as my starting point for my front post. I measured around 16 ½” from my front post to where my back posts would be factoring in my mailbox dimensions.

Here is the beginning of the hole for the other two posts. I opted to go with a concrete pour instead of a concrete pad. I dug the hole around 12 inches deep. You can opt to go deeper but keep in mind the cut measurements will change.

Then I added a 6” piece of 2×4 2 inches from the top to support the 16 ½” 2×4 that will run across for the mailbox support. I added a 6” piece of 2×4 to the back 4×4 post and placed it 12” deep into the hole. The 16 ½” piece of 2×4 was screwed on to the 6” supports using 3” screws. Always double check with a level to make sure everything is well balanced.

At this point I added the secondary rear post and 12” deep and made sure everything was leveled. I dumped half the bag of quick setting concrete into the hole making sure to get an even fill all around the diameter of your posts. Afterwards wet the concrete with water until it is all well saturated. I used a shovel to mix it around to make sure it had even mixture. I then filled the hole with the dirt that was originally taken out to plant the posts.

I then waited 30-40 minutes for the concrete to set before continuing. While I was waiting I went ahead and sanded down all the 1×6 boards that will be nailed to the side of the mailbox base. You want to make sure you sand every board down smooth. In some cases I had to sand down the marking on the wood until the grain underneath came out.

Once the concrete had set I placed the mailbox on top of the middle support and opened the mail door until it was resting freely while opened. I measured that the mailbox was centered and marked the 4 drill holes. I added the secondary 13” 2×4 underneath for more support.

Next, I added the 27” wood slats starting with the bottom of the mailbox until the bottom using the brad nails on an air compressor. Then I added the two 11 ½” 1×6 boards that went behind the mailbox. Lastly, I added the 47″ with a 45 degree angle (back), the 11” with a 45 degree angle (top), and the 36″ board (front). (These are not pictured).

Next, use the stain that you purchased. In my case, I used Rustoleum Cognac followed by fast drying polyurethane once the stain is dried. Pictured below is after 1 coat, not dried.

I decided to add 5 in. Elevated Satin Nickel Plated Numbers by Everbilt. Just follow the directions on whichever product you buy to finish up the build. For the Everbilt numbers I drilled holes on the number patterns and inserted the anchors. I then added the spacers and the screw ins to the numbers and used a rubber mallet to finish installing.

Dimension Reference

Finish Used

Rustoleum Cognac Finish

Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane

Categories: Woodworking

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